 |
 Shopping
CartSite
Map |
|
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) DigiSnap 2000 series questions
Time-Lapse Package Questions
VG-D70 Questions
Shipping questions General questions
What equipment do I need to use the DigiSnap 2000 products? The DigiSnap 2000 requires a digital camera with a serial cable. Many of the newer digital cameras only come with an USB cable, so an accessory serial cable must be purchased. We carry the serial cables for the Nikon Coolpix 990/995/880/885/5000/5700/4500/4300/5400 for $22 (Harbortronics brand) and $32 (Nikon brand). How do I connect my Nikon Coolpix camera to the DigiSnap? My camera only has an USB port. Although Nikon does not advertise a serial port on those cameras, they actually have them. Both the USB port and the serial port use the same connector, just separate pins within the connector. How can I tell if the DigiSnap will work with my camera? We have a full list of the compatible cameras on the compatibility page. Please click here to view. For other cameras we offer a very simple program on our website to check if your camera supports the protocol that is common to many digital camera manufacturers. Click to download: digisnap.exe. I need a DigiSnap in a few days for a big project, can I get one fast? Most shipping takes place within 2 business days. You can choose Overnight shipping to insure its arrival within 3 or 4 days. Call us if you want to check on expedited delivery. **** Please be aware: There is a learning curve for the advanced DigiSnap functions. Please give yourself time to learn the product before using it for a time critical application. Upon receipt of your DigiSnap product please allow time to fully test it for compatibility and functionality, we cannot guarantee that the DigiSnap will meet all your requirements for your project. We howevr, will work with you to get it set up to meet your needs. How do I use the DigiSnap with a Mac? The DigiSnap 2000 does not absolutely require connection to a computer to be used. To configure any of the options, and more advanced settings however, you will need to connect to a terminal of some sort. The most common terminal these days is formed by terminal emulator programs running on computers. There are a load of computer types out there... mainframe, mini, desktop, laptop, palm-top, all sorts of manufacturers for each class, and all of them have terminal emulator programs available for them. On Windows PCs this is easy enough. Windows comes with HyperTerminal, and all PCs still offer serial ports with DB-9 connectors, needing only the supplied null-modem cable to connect to the DigiSnap. Mac's too had serial ports until Apple decided the world no longer needed them, albeit with a different connector. We don't use Macs in our business so we are not able to advise you as to the best USB-to-Serial converters and terminal emulator programs to use, nor do we know what terminal emulators to suggest for other computer types and manufacturers. They're out there though! Information from e-mails received from Mac customers: From Brian L, California:
And another:
Can I connect multiple cameras to the DigiSnap? You bet... If each camera receives the same serial commands then they should all perform the same operation. The trick here is route the commands from the DigiSnap to each camera, and the responses from only one camera back to the DigiSnap. This can be accomplished by a custom serial cable system, and is not all that difficult. Making sure that the master camera does not respond before the slave camera(s) are ready can be a bit of an issue if the camera types are different, but it's not impossible. If there are a large number of cameras, then there might be an issue with signal loading. Harbortronics developed some custom electronics to drive 10 cameras from one DigiSnap for one customer. We even tested it with three different camera types at the same time! Developing a stereo camera cable assembly should actually be pretty easy. Something to think about in your application would be the level of synchronization. It’s unlikely that any two cameras are so perfectly matched in their serial port operations and everything else that they could both make use of the same strobe flash. For stereo photography work the synchronization might not be close enough for even action scenes. Experiment! Let us know what you find! Check out: http://www.crystalcanyons.net/Technotes/cp5000.htm. Why is there a delay when the DigiSnap 2000 is triggered to the time the camera actually takes a picture? The delay can vary quite a bit, depending on a lot of things. First off, rather than a simple electrical signal to trigger the shutter, there is a communication process between the DigiSnap and the camera, which takes a little time to tell the camera what to do. Sometimes the camera isn't ready to accept commands, and it takes an extra long time to 'wake up'. Second, the camera has to set exposure and focus. This is highly dependent on camera model, and the actual scene. On some cameras you can speed this step up by manually setting the focus and exposure. The Nikon 990 and 880 have an additional remote control feature to preset the functions (half-press mode), which can dramatically reduce the shutter delay. The delay can be from a few 10's of milliseconds (a guess) to a few seconds in the worst case. This makes it impractical (or at least very difficult) to acheive true synchronization between cameras. Trying to trigger a digital camera via the DigiSnap to slave to another camera or strobe is just not realistic, IMHO. What is the difference between the DigiSnap 2000 and Nikon's Mc-eu1? We have a detailed comparison of the two products on our website: Click Here. Camera quirks... what do you mean by that? Many of the digital camera use a 'standard' protocol for serial communication, intended primarily for image download. There are some printers that also use the protocol to talk to the camera, and there may even be some manufacturer specific camera control programs. While we don't have any particular knowledge in this area, it seems that the protocol is somewhat flexible, and each camera model may interpret the protocol slightly differently. Some commands may be ignored, some commands may be fully supported, but have a slightly different response. We’ve also encountered situations where the camera interface just plain didn’t seem to work well, and got better with later camera firmware releases (bugs). Some cameras operate differently when set up differently… for instance if the LCD is on or off., if the flash is enabled or disabled, etc. Each camera model therefore has it's own set of remote control quirks. We’ve tried to test with a variety of cameras during development to mitigate the severity of those quirks… we identified a number of them, and incorporated workarounds in our firmware. We have a load of configuration options that were added to address specific quirks we’ve encountered. There are undoubtedly others out there that you may come across, and have to resolve in your own way. Is there any danger to the camera using remote control? Not that we are aware of! The DigiSnaps have been used thousands of times without incident. There used to be some warnings posted from camera manufacturer rep’s about using remote control. There is a slight danger if you start poking into the various registers of the camera. There are commands to calibrate the camera, change some internal settings, and even upgrade the firmware. The old adage ‘a little knowledge can be dangerous’ can certainly apply here. Harbortronics has NDA’s in place with multiple camera manufacturers who have provided us with their camera model’s serial protocol, so we are in no danger of somehow accidentally upsetting camera calibrations. We have on many many occasions during development testing actually caused cameras to lock-up (no longer responsive to anything). The communication process is fairly well defined, but it’s easy enough to confuse the camera. In most cases turning the camera off resolved the lock-up. Sometimes we had to open the battery compartment for a moment. We’ve never encountered or even heard of any case where a camera was damaged or even altered in any way through a remote command. FYI: (Message from a customer:) "Not a complaint, just a suggestion for your (otherwise) excellent product: Just got my DigiSnap 2000 - lots of fun, played with it in the office for a few hours, then decided to have my Nikon Coolpix 990 do an time-lapse of a shot every 3 minutes of the street in front of my office. After 6 hours of accrued footage was shot, I assembled it into a video, and watched an amazing, hi-resolution movie of action outside of our office: kids playing in the park next door; traffic up and down the street; clouds shooting across the sky; the setting sun.....Ah, the setting sun. After the sun went down in the video, I noticed a pink streak across the sky - must've been an aircraft or something... NOPE! I had inadvertently BURNED the CCD IMAGER in my camera whenever the sun poked out from behind the clouds! EVERY image I now shoot has this smear. Of course, in retrospect I should've forecast this occurrence. A regular 35mm camera has a shutter that protects the film surface from the pin-point focused image of the sun - not so for a digital camera! It simple had to endure the traveling "burn" point across the imager element. <Sigh> So I have my Nikon in for service right now - no idea what the repair expense will be. One of my next projects is to set up a servo & vane "shutter" mechanism that'll interface with the Digisnap so my camera lens will only have to "see" the sun only when absolutely necessary. PLEASE - put an 'Exposure to Sun during Time-lapse' warning on your website. If you had, I'm sure I would've taken better care on my 1st time-lapse test." Can I use a Palm to configure the DigiSnap in the field? Yes you can! Like any other computer with a serial port, the Palm has several terminal emulator programs available. We've successfully tried Online from Markspace.com, but I suspect all of them will work. You will need to turn off the RTS?CTS and XOn/XOff handshaking. The tougher part is that you may have to come up with a cable modification first. WE have a Palm M100, so the discussion is specific to that model using the supplied hot sync cable, but I believe it's a similar issue with the other model. In order for the DigiSnap to recognize that it is connected to a terminal, it must see an active signal on Pin 1 of the interface. The palm hotsync cable puts the desired active signal on Pin 6 instead. All of the pins are correct, except that pins 1 and 6 need to be shorted. There are a few ways to do this:
The DigiSnap menus were designed to fit on a larger screen, so some of the text doesn't fit very well on the Palm. We've had a request to simplify the menus, and if we get a few more requests we just might do that. Do you have plans for an USB or FireWire remote? The DigiSnap products are camera controllers. To control a camera via USB would require that the DigiSnap become a USB host device, which is hugely more difficult than the requirements for a USB slave device, like a mouse, or even a digital camera. To my knowledge there are very few if any hand-held USB host devices on the market. The cost of such a device would be significantly more than the existing DigiSnap, and the development process is way more difficult as well, suggesting that the selling cost would be extremely high. How long is the cable for the DigiSnap? Is it extendable? The DigiSnap is connected to the camera via the serial cable offered by the camera manufacturer. The DigiSnap does not come with a cable to connect to your camera. Most other compatible cameras are sold with with PC type serial cables included. If your camera came with this cable then you are set to go! If not, you will have to purchase one from a camera retailer. When we have them in stock, we are happy to re-sell the Nikon SC-EW3 as a service for those people buying DigiSnaps for use with Coolpix 990's and 880's. If you'd like to operate remotely (i.e. more than a few feet from the camera), then you may need a longer cable. As the DigiSnap uses the industry standard DB-9 serial port interface, you may buy additional serial cables from any computer / office retailer, and daisy-chain them together to reach the distance you want. Serial cables are commonly available to 25 ft lengths. If you want to get really remote, then you may need a custom cable made. If you are technically inclined, then it's a very easy project to do-it-yourself. This serial port only needs pins 2, 3, and 5 connected, so you could get by nicely with a 3 wire cable, or even a 2 wire with a shield (connected pin 5). For those not so technically inclined, there are any number of small computer stores that could fabricate the cable for you. If all else fails, Harbortronics can also fabricate a very nice custom cable for you, but as this is not our primary business, we would likely charge more than other places. We have an old spool of network cable in the lab (about 700 ft of cable left on it), which we have used for testing, and found that there was not problem operating to that distance. There is a big caveat here though... the RS232 specification is rated to only 50 ft at the maximum data rate (230 KBaud), although everyone knows it it'll run farther than than, particularly at low data rates. To get it to run at really long distances you might be careful with cable selection, and try to isolate the signals by using twisted pairs... Cat 5 network cable is cheap and excellent for really long runs. How do I get the DigiSnap to work with my HyperTerminal program? There are many terminal programs available for every model computer. Hyperterminal is a program that is bundled with Windows, so it's the one we use for most our work. The rest of this discussion applies to the Hyperterminal setup, but many other programs operate similarly. As is the case with any program, there are a lot of settings and configurations possible with Hyperterminal. To make this configuration easier, we have a Hyperterminal script available on our website, DigiSnap.ht. Feel free to download this file... if you double click on it, it should launch Hyperterminal, and configure it to work with the DigiSnaps. If Hyperterminal doesn't start up, it may not yet be installed. To install it , go through the Start/Settings/Control Panel/Add Programs/Windows Setup/Communications process to install Hyperterminal. If you have not downloaded the DigiSnap.ht file, or are using other programs, the settings are as follows: Com1 (or whichever Com port you've connected the DigiSnap null-modem
cable to) How do I control my DigiSnap through wireless for remote controlled ariplanes/balloons and other applications? Wireless Remote Controls for DigiSnap 2000: 1) IR (infrared) Some cameras come with IR remote controls, allowing the camera zoom and shutter release to be operated while standing in front of the camera. The Nikon Coolpix cameras do not have this IR control feature. The DigiSnap 2500 includes an IR receiver, allowing the camera shutter to be triggered via these IR transmitters, as well as any TV remote control. Having the IR sensor on the DigiSnap also allows use from any position, rather than just from the front of the camera. 2) RF (radio frequency) There are a number of ways to use RF with a DigiSnap controlling a camera. a) A wireless modem can be used between the DigiSnap 2000 and the camera, to carry the serial communication signals, rather than a cable. THis can be a fairly expensive alternative, and the power requirements can be fairly high, but this does allows the user to manually control the DigiSnap, rather than some other intermediate device. b) There are a few RF Slave systems available in the photographic industry, such as the Pocket Wizard, which can send a trigger signal to a DigiSnap. These can be fairly expensive, but are readily available and easy to use. The DigiSnap 2200 is designed with a connector which can mate with these devices. c) By far the most popular method of RF control is to use off the shelf RC airplane equipment. Several DigiSnap 2000 models have inputs that are compatible with typical 'RC Switches'. All DigiSnap 2000 models can be modified with an additional connector to connect to multiple RC switches, to allow control over up to 5 different DigiSnap functions. The operator controls a standard RC transmitter, and the RC receiver is located with the DigiSnap and the camera. The RC receiver will have one or more servo output connectors, which are connected to RC switches, which convert the servo signals to a simple open / closed switch contact. These switch contacts are connected to the DigiSnap inputs, which is in turn connected to the camera. It sounds like a lot of stuff, but it apparently works pretty well, and allows you to control a camera located in the air, or other remote locations. Weights: DigiSnap 2000 : 1.745 Oz (49.4 g) What is the size and weight of the DigiSnap? DigiSnap 2000 measures 2.45" x 1.8" x .9" DigiSnap 2000 : 1.745 Oz (49.4 gm) Is the grip shaped ergonomically? The pictures really don't show it off very well. The shape has very smooth curves developed using clay models, and will fit the hand quite nicely. The overall shape is essentially the same as the best grips on the market, but the photography may be lacking… (I’m an engineer, Jim, not a photographer!) Can batteries be changed without removing the grip? The grip does have to be removed to change or charge the battery packs... given that you should be able to shoot twice as many pictures on a charge, I'm satisfied that this design complexity tradeoff is worthwhile. The Shutter Release Button looks small… The shutter release is intentionally smaller than on the camera, to keep from pressing it accidentally. You'll find that it 'feels' good though... there is a nice crisp two step action located at the most sensitive part of your finger. Of course! The mounting screw is threaded for a standard tripod mount screw. Tell me more about the half-press function… The addition of the VG-D70 does not change the way the camera works at all! When the camera is set for IR Remote mode, the VG-D70 emulates an IR Remote controller. If you have a modified camera, the VG-D70 will exactly emulate the shutter release button on the camera. Lets examine the way the camera works in a couple of different shutter release modes... A) Single Picture Mode A1) ----- Two Step Release (Standard operation) A2) ------- One Step Release A3) ------ VG-D70 with Modified camera B) IR Remote Mode B1) ----- Two Step Release (IR Remote) B2) ------- One Step Release (IR Remote) B3) ------- IR Remote using the VG-D70 Does the camera have to be modified to use the VG-D70 grip? Absolutely not! The VG-D70 can control any D70, out of the box. The D70’s IR shutter release has some limitations (no half-press, 15 minute shut off), but it works fine for most applications. If you really need the half-press on the vertical shutter release, there has to be a direct connection to the camera. Is there a discount on the camera modification if we order the grip? Yes… the price to add the remote shutter release jack to the camera will be reduced from $185 to $135, and we will throw in the jumper cable between the grip and camera, for which we would normally charge $25… a $75 discount. Can we modify the camera ourselves? Absolutely… it’s your camera after all. If you have the tools and ability, by all means give it a try. It’s a fairly simple connection, wiring the camera’s shutter release switches to a stereo 2.5mm jack (only 3 wires). Unfortunately you have to completely remove each and every part of the camera’s case (about 30 screws in total, #00 Philips screwdriver), acquire the right jack for the job, find a way to mount it just perfectly, route the wires through the camera body, soldering the wires to the right places inside the camera and on the jack. If this sounds scary to you, then you should perhaps leave it to someone else. I’ve already modified over 25 cameras, and the number continues to rise. There’s some value in expertise! If this sounds like fun to you however, go to it! We are not interested in selling a modification kit nor plans however, given the delicate nature of the task. Does the grip have a rubberized finish? No, it uses a polyurethane material, which is theoretically a rubber, but with a medium hard ‘feel’. Can I use the grip just to get an extra power pack without the use of the vertical shutter release? Absolutely… just remove the optical cable… the internal IR transmitter doesn’t draw enough power to worry about, and there is no impact to any camera function. Is there a dust / moisture seal between the grip and the camera base? No… the grip has a pretty good overlap of the camera base in most areas, but there is no seal. I think a few minutes with some foam tape would take care of this if you are concerned. Will the camera still work with the Nikon ML-L1 / ML-L3? Yes… the grip doesn’t change any camera function. Neither does the camera modification for that matter. Can I charge the battery packs through the external connector? Nope… they have to be charged per the normal battery chargers. The fiber optic cable is removable… does it reliably stay in place in use? The cable slides into a long ‘tunnel’ through the grip, and an internal rubber o-ring keeps in place. You can move it around at will, but it won’t fall out! How does the grip share two battery packs? Is the battery life doubled? The grip allows use of two batterys as well as an external power source. All three sources are connected together using diodes. Think of a diode as a one-way valve. The power source with the highest voltage will be connected to the camera contacts, and the other two will be essentiall disconnected. As one power source drops in voltage, the mix may change, so that the highest voltage is always applied. So, if you have two charged battery packs installed, as the charge drops on one pack, the current will start to be drawn from the other, until it's voltage drops down below the first. Both battery packs will effectively discharge at the same rate, effectively half as fast as they would have normally. If you use an external AC adapter with the grip, assuming the input voltage is higher than that of the battery packs, the battery packs will not be drained at all... all power will come from the external source. Some real world details... the diodes used to connect the power sources to the camera are not perfect 'valves'. The voltage applied to the camera will be about 0.3V less than that of the battery. This means that the camera's battery monitor will start to show reduced battery charge a little earlier than if the battery were directly connected to the camera. This means that you won't get exactly twice the battery life, but very close to it. Will the VG-D70 work on the D70s camera? Absolutely! The cameras are mechanically identical, so the grip fits quite well. Note that the D70s includes a proprietary shutter release jack. We are able to make cables compatible with this camera, and can now offer a jumper cable directly to the VG-D70! This allows the grip's two position shutter release button to exactly emulate the shutter release on the D70s. Do you have suppliers worldwide? We ship all products directly at this time. For most countries, we have the rates posted online for 1 pound packages. Click here for details. May I submit a picture to be included in your Gallery? Yes! Please e-mail the picture to us with a brief description of your camera, technique and other information as appropriate. We can post pictures or provide links to your site. |
| Copyright (c) 2003 Harbortronics Inc. All Rights Reserved |
5720 144th St NW Suite 200 Gig Harbor, WA 98332 253-858-7769 sales@harbortronics.com |
Web Site Designed By Tom Hayward Web Design |